Cross Stitch Fabric Count Guide: Aida, Linen & Evenweave

Updated: May 26, 2026

How Fabric Count Works

The fabric count tells you how many stitches fit per inch of fabric. A higher count = smaller stitches = finer, more detailed finished piece. A lower count = larger stitches = quicker to stitch, easier to see.

The formula:

Finished size (inches) = Stitch count ÷ Fabric count

For a 140-stitch pattern on 14-count Aida:

140 ÷ 14 = 10 inches

On 18-count Aida, the same 140-stitch pattern would measure:

140 ÷ 18 = 7.78 inches

The “Stitch Over” Variable

Aida fabric has a clear grid structure — each stitch naturally spans one grid square. You always stitch “over 1.”

Linen and evenweave have individual woven threads with no pre-formed grid. The convention is to stitch “over 2 threads,” which groups two threads together as one stitch unit. This is what makes 28-count linen equivalent to 14-count Aida:

Effective count = Fabric count ÷ Stitch over
28-count linen, over 2 → 28 ÷ 2 = 14 effective count

Always use the effective count in your size calculations.

Fabric Count Reference Table

FabricCountStitch OverEffective CountStitch SizeStrandsTypical Use
Aida111112.3 mm3Beginners, children
Aida141141.8 mm2Most patterns (standard)
Aida161161.6 mm2More detail
Aida181181.4 mm1–2Fine detail, ornaments
Aida221221.15 mm1Miniatures
Linen/Evenweave282141.8 mm2Popular linen (same as 14-ct Aida)
Linen/Evenweave322161.6 mm2Fine linen
Linen/Evenweave362181.4 mm1–2Heirloom

Bold rows = most commonly used.

Calculating Stitch Size

The physical size of one cross stitch = 1 ÷ effective count (inches):

  • 11-count: 1/11” = 0.091” (2.3 mm) per stitch
  • 14-count: 1/14” = 0.071” (1.8 mm) per stitch
  • 18-count: 1/18” = 0.056” (1.4 mm) per stitch
  • 28-count over 2: 1/14” = 0.071” (1.8 mm) per stitch

Converting Stitch Count to Centimetres

The calculator handles cm automatically, but if you’re working manually:

Size in cm = (Stitch count ÷ Effective count) × 2.54

Example: 100 stitches on 14-count:

(100 ÷ 14) × 2.54 = 7.14 × 2.54 = 18.14 cm

How Many Strands to Use

The strand count affects coverage and color intensity:

  • 11-count Aida → 3 strands (to fill the larger grid squares)
  • 14–16-count Aida → 2 strands (standard)
  • 18-count and above → 1–2 strands (1 strand gives a delicate, refined look)
  • 28-count linen over 2 → 2 strands (equivalent to 14-count Aida)
  • 32-count linen over 2 → 2 strands
  • 36-count linen over 2 → 1–2 strands

Using too many strands on high-count fabric makes stitches bulky and the fabric warp. Using too few on low-count leaves the grid holes visible. For how strand count affects skein coverage and floss quantities, see DMC Floss Skeins Guide.

Choosing Between Counts

Use a lower count (11–14) when:

  • You want to stitch faster
  • The pattern has fewer than 50 colors
  • You are a beginner
  • The design will hang at a distance (wall art)

Use a higher count (18–22) when:

  • The design has fine detail (faces, small text)
  • You want a smaller finished piece
  • You are stitching a miniature or ornament

Use linen (28–36) when:

  • You want a softer, more antique or fabric-like appearance
  • You are framing or displaying in a neutral/natural setting
  • You want a higher-quality textile for heirloom pieces

For a full side-by-side comparison of Aida vs linen vs evenweave, see Aida vs Linen for Cross Stitch.

Use the Cross Stitch Calculator to calculate the exact finished size for any fabric count before you buy.

References & Sources

  1. [1] Zweigart Fabric Specifications — Official Count Chart (opens in new tab)
  2. [2] DMC Floss & Fabric Guide (opens in new tab)
  3. [3] Needlework Tips — Cross Stitch Guild (opens in new tab)